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A residence with a solid oak
hardwood floor and a
surface finish has been flooded
REMEDIAL ACTIONS
(1) Excess moisture from the flooded condition must be removed
immediately. If
cupping of flooring is the only adverse result, drying
of the floor is necessary. The use of fans and dehumidifiers from the
interior of the home or below the floor system (i.e. crawl space, if
possible) may be all that is necessary to remove the cup. In homes
with forced air heat, turn off any humidification and heat the
residence to 76°- 80° F. Set furnace blower on manual to run
continuously. After the flooring has flattened from the drying
procedures, screening, filling, and re- coating could be sufficient
for repair, if no permanent staining has occurred. If the floor is
water stained, re-finishing may be necessary.
- (2) If the water has been removed and cupping is prominent
(buckling not present) light sanding directly across the grain of
the flooring to remove the finish is required (this procedure should
be done by a professional). Since the sanding drum follows the
contour of the cup, flooring edges are not removed, which helps
prevent crowning later. The sanding procedure allows the excess
moisture in the flooring to dissipate faster. Do not sand the floor
to bare wood, simply remove a majority of the finish. Drying of the
floor as described in #1 should be initiated. After drying has
occurred and the floor has stabilized and flattened, some
compression cracks, some loose strips, and cracks due to movement
from the initial flooding might be expected. At this time
re-finishing may begin. Loose areas should be re-attached by nailing
or screwing and cracks should be filled. This repair is a judgment
call as the more severe the initial cause the more remedy #3 is
indicated.
- (3) If the floor has cupped and buckled, excess moisture probably
remains in the flooring and floor system. Since the floor has also
separated from the subfloor (buckled) and has loosened, replacement
of the damaged and surrounding area is generally the procedure for
repair. The excess moisture remaining in the underfloor system
should be completely removed before re-installation and finishing.
If the flooring is installed over plywood attached to a slab,
removal of the entire system is normally required.
An attempt to cosmetically repair by simply re-nailing, sanding
out the cup and re- finishing could backfire. Later problems with
staining, crowning, cracks, finish failure, or loose floors could
develop. By the time these later problems occur most insurance claim
releases have been signed, and either the home owner or flooring
contractor is saddled with the final repair. Additional repair,
partial replacement and refinishing could be the least severe
result. The worst case would be to completely replace the floor.
In any case quick action to remove the induced flooded moisture
is the first step in successful repair. Patience is also required as
finished flooring and floor systems do not react and dry out
overnight. It may take weeks for the flooring to flatten and/or
stabilize.
The above procedures would also apply to a sealed and waxed floor
with the exception of not having to cross sand to remove finish. A
sealed floor would also tend to dry quicker and in the least severe
cases complete refinishing would not be required. Refurbishing or
renovating with the appropriate cleaner and re-waxing can often
restore a sealed and waxed floor's appearance.
REFERENCE: Additional pages
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Installing Wood Floors. com
